This research paper is relevant to Indian Apparel manufacturing sector.
Designed under technical guidance of Mr. Jayashantha Perera
(Prevention Vs Detection)
Proposed Involvement of (Head Office) HO QA Team & Factory QA Team in assuring quality.
Present involvement of HO QA team at sampling stage is NIL
Tech pack analysis for all the new styles & provide input to PAM.
>> QA team has to analyze Techpack and prepare notes to contribute to PAM.
>> QA team has to analyze garments for all the processes it will be going through during the manufacturing process. (Ex: Fabric Inspection, Fabric Treatment, Cutting Process, Embroidery, Printing, Sewing, Trims & Accessories placement, Post Sewing Treatments, Pressing, Packing & Packaging).
>> QA team has to prepare guidelines/work instructions for each process and discuss at PAM.
>> QA team has to forecast Quality concerns that factory may come across for every stage of the manufacturing process.
Process Owner: HO-QA Team
Process Monitor: R & D Team
System Support: R & D Team
Pattern & Construction Changes History.
>> QA team has to analyze & understand the changes made in patterns at various stages of sampling process and the reasons contributing to it.
>> QA team has to analyze & understand the changes made in constructions & specification requirements at various stages of sampling process and the reasons contributing to it.
>> The above two points would give an insight to QA team on critical areas the customer is focusing on w.r.t garments.
Process Owner: HO-QA Team
Process Monitor: R & D Team
System Support: R & D Team
Pre-Production Stage (Batch setting Time)
Correlation of Fabric on defects – 10% random (4-Point). Warehouse Vs Factory.
>> Central warehouse has to send its inspection report to factory on issue of fabric. One copy of report to be given to Merchandiser.
>> Factory warehouse, on receipt of fabric from central warehouse, has to randomly inspect 10% of fabric received by 4-point inspection system.
>> Factory warehouse has to prepare a report for the above inspection conducted.
>> Factory QA & HO QA has to compare the results of the inspection of Factory & warehouse. Authenticate correctness of the reports & accuracy of the same. Keep Central Warehouse QA team in loop.
>> Upon rejections & deviations from the prescribed specification, seek approval on the same from the Customer via Merchandiser.
Process Owner: QA Team
Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Central Warehouse/Merchandiser
System Support: Systems Team
Verification of Shade segregation for wash/Non-wash garments against given shade swatches.
>> Verify the shade segregation done by the factory for wash/Non-Wash garments against the available standard.
>> Guide factories on shade segregation so as to comply with the approved swatches.
>> Seek approval on deviation in the bulk lot against the available standard.
Process Owner: QA Team
Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Central Warehouse/Merchandiser
System Support: Systems Team
Co-Ordinate with merchants & obtain approvals, washing & hand feel standards.
Trims Card approvals in co-ordination with merchandiser.
Approvals on Embroidery & Print Strike Off.
Test Approvals as specified by the buyer & follow-up status.
>> QA team has to seek testing requirements for the style & follow-up on the same with merchandiser.
>> QA team has to seek approved standards w.r.t colour standards, wash effect, embroidery, printing, hand feel, trims & accessories swatch card etc from the merchandiser to follow during the bulk production.
>> QA team has to make a checklist of all the tests & approvals to be required for the style & at various stages of manufacturing processes and for various embellishments involved in the garment.
>> QA team has to follow up with merchants periodically on the status of the approvals.
>> QA team has to co-ordinate between factory & merchants on updating status of approvals.
Process Owner: QA Team
Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Merchandiser/Production Planning Team
System Support: Systems Team
Fusing Validation in compliance with specifications.
>> QA team has to educate production team on the use of fusing, areas fusing are required, way the fusing has to be cut, temperature & pressure to be set for fusing.
Process Owner: QA Team
Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Production Team
System Support: Systems Team
Factory Marker verification against the HO & validation
>> QA team has to verify the Marker used by the factory in terms of efficiency & quality, compare & analyze it with marker prescribed by HO team.
>> QA team has to prescribe usage of the most efficient marker among the two & ensure the usage of the same.
>> If same style is split among factories, then markers of all the factories have to be compared & most efficient marker to be prescribed for use.
Process Owner: QA Team
Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Production Team
System Support: Systems Team
Pattern Measurement Report
Clarification/Co-ordination on the measurement adjustment with the sample room
>> QA team has to verify & certify the correctness of the patterns w.r.t allowances required, constructions simplification & meeting the spec with in the tolerance.
>> QA team has to duly consider the Pre & Post sewing treatments on the fabric & garments while verifying & certifying the pattern. They have to check on the allowances required to meet the specifications after these processes.
Process Owner: QA Team
Process Monitor: Factory QA Team/Production Team
System Support: Systems Team
Audit on condition of M/cs set for new styles affecting the quality of garments.
>> QA team has to audit on the condition of the M/cs that would affect the productivity & quality of the garment along with the assistance of Maintenance & IE team.
>> A checklist w.r.t the same has to be prepared & periodically followed up during the bulk production, batch setting.
>> QA team has to advise maintenance team to follow the same during its preventive maintenance schedule.
Process Owner: Factory QA team
Process Monitor: HO QA Team/Maintenance Team
System Support: Systems Team
Trims Inspection whether carried out by warehouse – 10% random + checklist.
>> QA team has to create a process of trims inspection.
In-House Pre-Production Meetings.
Preparation of defect route for inline for every style
>> QA team has to arrange Pre-Production meetings for the new styles to be loaded in the factory.
>> Factory Production & Quality team to be involved in the meeting along with a PAM team member.
>> Minutes of the meeting (Action Plan) to be documented & later to be used as a checklist (Action Plan Checklist) during bulk production.
>> PAM notes to be discussed during the pre-production meeting.
>> Critical checkpoints where inline inspection would be required have to be decided.
>> Critical operations where mockups have to be posted have to be decided.
Recut Panels Analysis & reporting (1st Cut to 3rd Cut).
Verification on rejected panels
>> QA Team to analyze & monitor recut % day wise.
>> QA Team to evaluate the reason for recutting & work on action plan for immediate implementation. Upon implementation recut % to gradually reduce on comparison to previous day.
>> QA team to randomly, periodically, evaluates the panels inspected by QC & certifies the correctness of the decision taken.
>> QA teams to monitor Recut % for every style.
Audit the condition of the pattern used for marker drawing
>> Upon usage there will be wear & tear in the pattern, this has to be regularly monitored to ensure cutting quality.
>> If the patterns are worn out, it has to be replicated & cross verified against the requirements.
>> Worn out patterns are to be destroyed after confirmation on the correctness of the specifications.
Other Tools
- Verification on Accuracy of the method used for shrinkage test on fabric
- Random audit the accuracy of marker drawing
- Random audit the cutting accuracy of cut bundles understanding of 1/8 “ tolerance by cutting QC
- Audit the condition of the equipment (rough edges) used for sorting of cut bundles
- Unacceptable/Minor fabric defect swatches be provided or available at cutting
- Widthwise segregation of fabric rolls
- Operation mock-ups are hung on m/cs with specifications and signature
- Pilot lot review & recommendations
- Inline – Flag System
- Implementation of SPC & SQC Charts
- Audit on End line inspectors/products
- Verification of Embroidery, Print Placement
- Verification of Placements of Trims & Accessories
- Training of End Line QCs on clockwise inspection & major/minor classification
- Audit the condition of the equipment (sharp edges) used in sewing batches
- After wash inspection & analysis of correct analysis of defects
- Pressing & button Inspection – SPC (Attributes)
- Monitoring the unshippables due to washing
- Feedback to washing plant on washing defects
- Verification of packing requirements & packaging.
- Provision of feedback FQC defects to end line checkers & educate them
- FQC Inspection
- Auditing of Products as per AQL
- Final Measurement report
- Final Audit report in terms of Presentation (Dummy fit & evaluation of garments)
- Pareto analysis on defects at every stage.
- DHU% level at all stages of the process and correlation between them.
- Analysis of Inline, End-Line & Final SPC & audit reports & corrective action
- Preservation of products from stains/oil marks and fabric flaws etc.
- Evaluation of each QC’s performance as per accuracy & output
- Individual garments defects identification stickers at end line and finishing stages
- Audit on adequacy of lighting level at inspection & Operation areas.
- Rotation of End line auditors
- Acceptance/Revised tolerance level
